Good point, I think Fenugreek is pretty potent natural 5-AR inhibitor.
DHT I've heard is more androgenic than testosterone but less anabolic? I've also read that DHT increases both adrenaline and GABA levels in the brain, so it can promote sort of "controlled aggression". But for health yeah, testosterone is probably the way to go if you want to boost your hormones. Oily skin and acne are definitely linked to DHT and its derivates.
